When renovating or renovating water and electricity, leakage of PVC drain pipe joints is the most troublesome problem - it looks fine just after installation, but it starts to seep in two days. At best, it will soak the wall, and at worst, it will affect the neighbors downstairs. In fact, as long as you master a few key steps, you can minimize the risk of water leakage. Today, I will share these practical tips with you, and beginners can do it right at once.

First, you have to do enough preparation. There are not many tools and materials required: a sharp pipe scissor (or hacksaw, but the pipe scissor cut is flatter), a piece of fine sandpaper, a bottle of matching PVC special glue (don't use other glues instead, the stickiness and sealing are far worse), the corresponding joints (be sure to choose the same brand and specifications as the pipe, the size of different manufacturers may be deviated), and a clean cotton cloth. Don't rush to start, spread these things in front of you first, so as not to find tools halfway to disrupt the rhythm.

The first step, pipe cutting and cleaning is the foundation of the foundation. When cutting pipe with pipe scissors, be sure to keep the incision perpendicular to the pipe shaft - if you cut diagonally, the contact area between the joint and the pipe will be smaller, and it is easy to leave gaps. After cutting, use sandpaper to grind the edge of the incision and the outer wall of the pipe (about 2-3 cm long), and gently grind the inner wall of the joint. This step is not unnecessary: a smooth surface will prevent the PVC glue from fully adhering, and grinding can increase friction and adhesion. After grinding, dip a cotton cloth in some anhydrous alcohol (or clean tap water, but dry it) and wipe the contact surface of the pipe and joint thoroughly - oil, dust and even hand sweat will destroy the stickiness of the glue. Don't be too troublesome. If this step is not done well, the probability of water leakage will triple later.

Next is the trial installation. Many people think "just apply glue and insert it", but the trial installation can help you avoid major problems. Insert the cut pipe into the joint to see how tight it is: it is best to easily insert about 1/3. If it cannot be inserted, it means that the pipe is too thick or the joint is too small and needs to be replaced. If it is inserted to the end, it means that the gap is too large and it is easy to leak after gluing. There is no problem with the trial installation. Then pull out the pipe and prepare to apply glue.

The technique of gluing directly determines the sealing effect. When taking PVC glue, shake the bottle well (the stickiness of the precipitated glue will decrease), and then dip a glue brush into an appropriate amount of glue - remember, the outer wall of the pipe and the inner wall of the joint must be coated! And apply it evenly, do not miss any corner. When applying, pay attention to the amount: if there is too little, it cannot fill the gap; if there is too much, the glue will squeeze out of the joint, and after drying, it will form a hard block, which will affect the sealing. Generally speaking, there is a uniform film on the surface after applying, and it is just right that there is no accumulation or leakage.

Plug in immediately after applying the glue. The action should be fast but steady: align the pipe with the joint, insert it in one breath to the end (don't hesitate, the glue dries quickly, and it will not stick well if it is slow). After inserting, gently rotate it by 15-30 degrees - this step will allow the glue to be more evenly distributed on the contact surface and avoid gaps. After plugging it in, hold the connector and pipe with your hands and keep it still for 3-5 minutes - even if you feel "stuck", don't worry about letting go. The glue you just applied has not cured, and it is easy to shift when you move it.

Finally, it is a post-inspection. Don't rush to pass water! It takes 24 hours for the PVC glue to fully cure (if the temperature is low in winter, it has to be extended to 48 hours). Don't touch the connector during this period, let alone test the pressure. After 24 hours, slowly turn on the faucet, let the water flow slowly through the pipe, and then squat down to see if there is any seepage at the joint - even a little bit of water droplets will not work, and it has to be reprocessed. If there is no problem, check the joint every six months in the future, especially in humid places such as kitchens and bathrooms, and find that the glue layer is cracked or aging, and replenish the glue in time.

There are also a few small details to pay attention to: when using PVC glue in winter, soak the plastic bottle in warm water for 5 minutes (don't use boiling water, it will destroy the composition of the glue), so that the fluidity of the glue is better; if there are scratches or cracks on the surface of the pipe, don't think about using glue to repair, just replace it - the air hidden in the scratches will make the glue unable to fill up, and it will definitely leak later; don't hit it with a hammer when plugging, it is easy to crack the pipe. If it can't be plugged in, it means that the size is wrong, and changing the joint is more reliable

In fact, the installation of PVC drain pipe joints is not so complicated. The key is to make every step fine - cut flat, clean, glue evenly, and plug firmly. As long as you follow these steps, 99% of water leakage problems can be avoided. After all, the small problems in the decoration are ten times more troublesome to repair later than when installing.